The Fatz
A sophisticated satin shirt with a striking collar that redefines layering.
Story & Inspiration ·
Design Goals & Audience ·
Market Data & Research ·
Competitors ·
Consumer Needs ·
Materials & Trims ·
Development ·
Technical Packs! ·
Prototyping & Sampling ·
Brand Cohesion ·
E-Commerce Site Plan ·
Challenges & Reflection ·
Story & Inspiration · Design Goals & Audience · Market Data & Research · Competitors · Consumer Needs · Materials & Trims · Development · Technical Packs! · Prototyping & Sampling · Brand Cohesion · E-Commerce Site Plan · Challenges & Reflection ·
What to expect in this case study
Because of my supportive soundboard, Fatimah
I would often message my friend Fatimah with random ideas, knowing she’d offer pure support. Fatimah was the first friend to believe in me as a garment designer, and this shirt reflects her spirit— classic, elegant, and ready to push boundaries in the name of fun when needed.
Inspiration
While other kids wore Brandy Melville and Pacsun in high school, I focused on one staple garment each year— the Banana Republic Factory blue cotton collared shirt. I have always loved the Americana preppy vibe, especially when layered under a pullover with the collar peeking out. But I thought, why stop there? Why not more collar? And here we are.
Why I Designed This
TARGET AUDIENCE
PURPOSE
The purpose of this collared shirt is threefold: to serve as a layering staple under pullovers, to be tucked in the front with pants and skirts, and to create a flowy effect in the back.
Demographic: Women aged 25-35, particularly in cloudier climates.
Lifestyle: Dynamic individuals balancing work and leisure activities in the city.
Style Preferences: They prefer a clean, contemporary aesthetic with bold, sophisticated details and a focus on quality.
Geographic Focus: Ideal for urban fashionable cities like San Francisco, London, Chicago, Seattle, and New York during Autumn and Spring.
SPECIFIC GOALS
Versatility in Styling: A new kind of collared shirt. This is the shirt to wear on a cool day, as a stand-alone piece or layered over pullover for added style on an even cooler day.
Comfort and Functionality: The loose, flowy structure combined with satin fabric offers a comfortable and casual fit, even when tucked into pants. The buttons allow for adjustable breathability at the chest, while the 1.5 cm spacing between the back pleats ensures you aren't weighed down by excess fabric.
Modern Aesthetic: Maintaining a modern aesthetic to the brand’s design language while also having that fun quirk we love - which is the oversized collar.
Market Data
Office Siren
trend in 2024 blends professional attire with sophisticated elements, creating a bold yet polished look that empowers women in the workplace. (Byrdie)
Global Satin Fabric Market Growth (2021-2026)
Line graph showing the projected growth of the global satin fabric market from 2021 to 2026, with the market expected to reach $2.15 billion by 2026. The data demonstrates steady growth, indicating increasing demand for satin fabrics, which makes designing satin collar shirts a potentially profitable venture. (Statista, Grand View Research, WorldMetrics)
COMPETITORS
What they do well…
Victoria Beckham: Tailored Fit Her satin shirts are often tailored with precision to accentuate the body’s natural shape. Subtle darts and seaming details are carefully placed to create a flattering fit without being overtly form-fitting, offering a refined yet comfortable silhouettes
Yves Saint Laurent: French Seams and Fine Finishings High-end finishing techniques, like French seams, are commonly used in their shirts. These details not only improve the durability and clean look of the garment but also reflect the impeccable craftsmanship typical of premium fashion.
Jil Sander: Knife Pleating Jil Sander is famous for minimalist luxury, and pleats in their shirts are used sparingly yet purposefully. The knife pleating in Jil Sander’s designs often adds subtle texture or a crisp, tailored element to otherwise clean, minimalist garments.
Retro / Vintage Styles
As thrifting grows in popularity, partly driven by social consciousness, many trends are leaning towards playful retro styles. My trousers bring a 1950s-inspired flair, making them a fun addition to any outfit.
60%
of Gen Z consumers express interest in retro or vintage-inspired clothing, driving demand for fun vintage styles among Millennials and Gen Z. (WorldMetrics)
$2.15 Billion
by 2026 is the projected value of the global satin fabric market, driven demand for premium fabrics in both high-end and everyday fashion. (CognitiveMarketResearch)
Trims
CONSUMER NEEDS
More Layering Moments
On Pinterest or TikTok, many influencers showcase how chic layering can be for cooler seasons. My dramatic collar shirt is specifically designed to make the collar easy to layer over other tops, adding a stylish touch.
Care Label
Standard satin label, thermal print, folded, in white
Thread
Spun Polyester, 100% Polyester, T-21 (Match to fabric)
Brand Label
TBD Sourced from the factory.
Workwear Chic Attire
Workwear attire is on the rise and is proving to be a lasting trend. A collared shirt is key to achieving the polished look many women desire, especially as more Gen Z individuals enter the workforce.
Materials Research
Single Face Satin (Polyester/Nylon)
Single face satin offers a luxurious feel on the interior while being more cost-effective and lightweight than double face satin. The satin's glossy side reduces friction, making it easier to slip on and off, while its breathability ensures comfort during wear. Using a polyester blend is more affordable, durable, and less prone to wrinkles than silks.
Fabric
Color
Egret offers a timeless elegance and versatility that compliments many outfits. The modern and minimalist style is an aesthetic my target demographic would feel comfortable exploring. While black and brown leather jackets are more common, Egret stands out with a unique appeal.
Design Development
Fashion Illustration
Initial Sketches
Tech Pack
Prototyping & Sampling
Currently manufacturing in China
126 Chan Chung
Manufacturing Timeline
Mid-October 2024:
Proto Sample Submission: The proto sample will be submitted by mid-October 2024.
End of October 2024:
Feedback on Proto Sample: Provide feedback on the proto sample by the end of October 2024.
November 10, 2024:
Final Agreement: Finalize the price, quantity, and payment terms by November 10, 2024.
November 20, 2024:
Grading and Fabric Purchase: Begin grading and fabric purchase by November 20, 2024.
December 2024:
Grading and Fabric Completion: Complete grading and have all fabric ready by December 2024.
Mid-December 2024:
PPS Submission: Submit the PPS using bulk fabric and trims by mid-December 2024.
End of December 2024:
Feedback on PPS: Provide feedback on the PPS by the end of December 2024.
Early January 2025:
Production Start: Production will start in early January 2025.
End of February 2025:
Estimated Delivery: Delivery is estimated by the end of February 2025.
How this piece fits with rest of the line…
Color Palette: The beige color of the jacket compliments the more neutral and muted tones which creates a cohesive look across the collection.
Silhouette and Style: The jacket’s minimalist design is consistent with the overall modern and tailored aesthetic of the other pieces. The sharp lines and structured fit of the jacket align with the other garments' sleek silhouettes. The lack of excessive embellishments and the focus on clean design elements are also unifying.
Versatility: The jacket can be easily paired with the other pieces, such as the black pants and white shirt. This versatility is a key characteristic that ties it into the broader collection, emphasizing the ability to mix and match within the line.
E-Commerce Site Plan
360-Degree View
A 360-degree view of a jacket online offers a comprehensive and interactive shopping experience. By allowing customers to rotate the jacket and view it from every angle, they can get a more accurate sense of its fit, design, and details. This feature reduces uncertainty and increases confidence in the purchase decision, as customers can examine important aspects like the back design, side cuts, and fabric texture.
Visual Diagram
A visual diagram easily breaks down the jacket’s key features—such as material, design, and craftsmanship. This highlights how confident we are in the product's quality - specific elements like the collar design, magnetic placement, and overall fit.
Challenges & Learnings
Think with Cohesion.
When launching an entire line, it's essential to maintain a consistent design language across all pieces. While designing this jacket, I was often tempted to introduce varsity and preppy elements. However, I needed to stay true to the minimalist and simple aesthetic of the collection to ensure overall cohesion.
Manufacturing, you truly are a beast of its own kind.
The manufacturing process has proven to be more complex and demanding than I initially anticipated. I contacted over 100 manufacturers across multiple countries to find one that could meet my requirements for low minimum order quantities (MOQs), competitive pricing, and high-quality production. Additionally, I had to adapt my communication style, especially on platforms like WeChat, to ensure my terminology was clear and easily translatable for my Chinese manufacturers. Being on the same page from crucial.
The art of the tech pack.
Developing the tech pack has been a significant achievement for me. A lot of my pride as a designer is there. It's the primary tool for conveying my designs in clear, detailed, and straightforward terms. I underwent multiple feedback sessions with my mentor to refine and perfect the tech pack.