The Zenith
A refined modern long coat with minimalist trims.
Story & Inspiration ·
Design Goals & Audience ·
Market Data & Research ·
Competitors ·
Consumer Needs ·
Materials & Trims ·
Development ·
Technical Packs! ·
Prototyping & Sampling ·
Brand Cohesion ·
E-Commerce Site Plan ·
Challenges & Reflection ·
Story & Inspiration · Design Goals & Audience · Market Data & Research · Competitors · Consumer Needs · Materials & Trims · Development · Technical Packs! · Prototyping & Sampling · Brand Cohesion · E-Commerce Site Plan · Challenges & Reflection ·
What to expect in this case study
For my mother, Zenith
This long coat is named after my mother. As a child, I was mesmerized by her elegance and poise in long coats. This design symbolizes my love for her and the modesty and class she taught me.
Inspiration
As a child, I was captivated by the sight of women in long coats, especially my mother, who embodied elegance in a peacoat. At 5’9" with long legs, it always seemed like the coat was made just for her, adding an extra layer of class and sophistication to her presence. Long, preppy coats are a tradition in my family—my mother, older sister, and I often shared opinions on new styles we loved, shopping for them together. I set out to create my own version of these beloved coats.
Why I Designed This
TARGET AUDIENCE
PURPOSE
This long, single-breasted coat is designed for a minimalist and formal-ish look, ideal for both casual and professional urban settings.
Demographic: Urban women aged 23-35, particularly in cloudier and seasonal rainy climates.
Lifestyle: Dynamic individuals balancing work, social activities, and personal interests.
Style Preferences: They prefer a clean, contemporary aesthetic with bold, sophisticated details and a focus on quality.
Geographic Focus: Ideal for cooler climates in cities like San Francisco, London, Portland, Seattle, and New York during Autumn and Spring.
SPECIFIC GOALS
Versatility in Styling: Imagine a refined, sleek long coat that you can effortlessly throw over a simple outfit, instantly elevating your look.
Comfort and Functionality: The 100% satin lining in the jacket allows for easy slip in and out of and wear - the magnetic closures offer quicker and easier ease in closing than zippers and buttons.
Modern Aesthetic: Maintaining a modern aesthetic to the brand’s design language while also having that fun quirk we love - which is the contrasting green satin lining.
Market Data
18%
Increase in leather outerwear sales in 2024 has been driven by strong contributions from designers like Hermes, Gucci, and Balmain. (WhoWhatWear)
Projected Growth of the Winter Wear Market (2023-2033)
The market is expected to grow steadily, reaching $490 billion by 2033 from $330 billion in 2023, with jackets and coats being a key segment in this growth. (FutureInsights)
COMPETITORS
What they do well…
Max Mara: Fabric Composition – Max Mara does a good job creating coats that can go with anything. What I particularly love, is Max Mara’s single-breasted designs are iconic in both wool and cashmere blends.
AllSaints: Urban Edginess — One thing about AllSaints, is that it will always offer a sleek and refined look. Their coats blend urban edge with versatility, making them perfect for both casual and formal settings.
Ultra Sleek Minimalism
In Vogue’s “Trends Come and Go, But the Best Leather Jackets Are Forever in Style” article, there is an emphasis on minimalist styles that widely reflect my coat design.
70%
Consumers in cities like New York, London, and Seattle prefer long coats for their blend of warmth and style (YouGov).
Broad Appeal
Long coats are in demand across genders, with high sales in both men’s and women’s categories (Inditex).
Trims
Magnetic Snap Straps
Sew-in magnetic bars made of neodymium, waterproof, plastic covered, with a rectangular shape and iron material. The magnetic closures offer a minimalist, chic edge while making the jacket easy to open and close
Size: 10mm-20mm
CONSUMER NEEDS
Lining Color
Emerald green lining a fun contrast with the Egret shell, adding subtle personality to the garment. The color itself symbolizes vitality and energy, infusing the minimalist jacket with a lively spirit. Additionally, data shows that emerald green is highly favored, making it a lining that enhances the overall appeal of the jacket.
When it comes to competitors, my jacket has been notably absent from mainstream brands and designer labels for years. This is largely due to the recent popularity of leather blazers and the fad of racer jackets dominating the market. A style that is prevalent in the market: Beige Moto Jackets.
Innovative Closures
My garments are designed for urban areas with cooler climates like San Francisco, Seattle, New York, and London. Millennial and Gen Z working urbanites prioritize practicality over style. The magnetic closures offer a minimalist, chic edge while making the jacket easy to open and close.
Care Label
Standard satin label, thermal print, folded, in white
Thread
Spun Polyester, 100% Polyester, T-21 (Match to fabric)
Brand Label
TBD Sourced from the factory.
Ease of Optional Layering
The loose structure of the leather jacket with its unique jewel neckline offers endless styling options. It can be worn over a turtleneck, a dramatic collared shirt, or even a front-tie blouse. With so many influencers on YouTube and TikTok sharing layering tips, why not have the perfect jacket to do so?
Materials Research
Lining Fabric
Single Face Satin (Polyester/Nylon)
Single face satin offers a luxurious feel on the interior while being more cost-effective and lightweight than double face satin. The satin's glossy side reduces friction, making it easier to slip the jacket on and off, while its breathability ensures comfort during wear. Using a polyester blend is more affordable, durable, and less prone to wrinkles than silks.
Fabric
Shell Fabric
Matte pleather with a smooth surface, made from polyurethane (PU)
This offers a cruelty-free alternative to genuine leather and remains cost-effective, making it a great choice for small businesses.
Color
Shell Color
Egret offers a timeless elegance and versatility that compliments many outfits. The modern and minimalist style is an aesthetic my target demographic would feel comfortable exploring. While black and brown leather jackets are more common, Egret stands out with a unique appeal.
Design Development
Fashion Illustration
Initial Sketches
Tech Pack
Prototyping & Sampling
Currently manufacturing in China
Qingdao Prinda Textile &Garments Co; Ltd
Manufacturing Timeline
End of August 2024:
Proto Sample Submission: The proto sample, including lab dips, will be sent by the end of August.
September 5, 2024:
Feedback on Proto Sample: Provide feedback on the proto sample by September 5th.
Before September 5, 2024:
Final Agreement: Finalize the price, quantity, and payment terms before September 5th.
September 7, 2024:
Grading and Fabric Purchase: Begin grading and fabric purchase by September 7th.
End of September 2024:
Grading and Fabric Purchase Completion: Complete grading and have all fabric and materials ready by the end of September.
End of September 2024:
PPS Submission: Send the PPS using bulk fabric and trims by the end of September, before the October holiday.
October 8, 2024:
Feedback on PPS: Provide feedback on the PPS by October 8th.
End of October 2024:
Production and Delivery: Production will start after the feedback on the PPS, with an estimated delivery by the end of October
How this piece fits with rest of the line…
Color Palette: The beige color of the jacket compliments the more neutral and muted tones which creates a cohesive look across the collection.
Silhouette and Style: The jacket’s minimalist design is consistent with the overall modern and tailored aesthetic of the other pieces. The sharp lines and structured fit of the jacket align with the other garments' sleek silhouettes. The lack of excessive embellishments and the focus on clean design elements are also unifying.
Versatility: The jacket can be easily paired with the other pieces, such as the black pants and white shirt. This versatility is a key characteristic that ties it into the broader collection, emphasizing the ability to mix and match within the line.
E-Commerce Site Plan
360-Degree View
A 360-degree view of a jacket online offers a comprehensive and interactive shopping experience. By allowing customers to rotate the jacket and view it from every angle, they can get a more accurate sense of its fit, design, and details. This feature reduces uncertainty and increases confidence in the purchase decision, as customers can examine important aspects like the back design, side cuts, and fabric texture.
Visual Diagram
A visual diagram easily breaks down the jacket’s key features—such as material, design, and craftsmanship. This highlights how confident we are in the product's quality - specific elements like the collar design, magnetic placement, and overall fit.
Challenges & Learnings
Think with Cohesion.
When launching an entire line, it's essential to maintain a consistent design language across all pieces. While designing this jacket, I was often tempted to introduce varsity and preppy elements. However, I needed to stay true to the minimalist and simple aesthetic of the collection to ensure overall cohesion.
Manufacturing, you truly are a beast of its own kind.
The manufacturing process has proven to be more complex and demanding than I initially anticipated. I contacted over 100 manufacturers across multiple countries to find one that could meet my requirements for low minimum order quantities (MOQs), competitive pricing, and high-quality production. Additionally, I had to adapt my communication style, especially on platforms like WeChat, to ensure my terminology was clear and easily translatable for my Chinese manufacturers. Being on the same page from crucial.
The art of the tech pack.
Developing the tech pack has been a significant achievement for me. A lot of my pride as a designer is there. It's the primary tool for conveying my designs in clear, detailed, and straightforward terms. I underwent multiple feedback sessions with my mentor to refine and perfect the tech pack.